Q and A of the Most Common Ceiling Fan Problems

Ceiling fans circulate air to provide a cooling effect in the summer and evenly distribute heat in the winter.  Overall ceiling fans maximize efficiency in the air conditioning process.  During the life of a hard working ceiling fan problems can occur.  Like any other product ceiling fans and there installers are not perfect.  The following are the most common ceiling fan problems that exist. 

Question:

Why does my ceiling fan wobble?

Answer:

1. Is the electrical junction box secured tight?  If not tighten it.
2. Is the ceiling fan securely mounted to the fan bracket?  If not tighten it. 
3. Is the fan bracket firmly tightened to the junction box?  If not tighten it.
4. Is the slot in the ball joint on the end of the ceiling fan down rod fitted in the tongue on the fan bracket?  If not fit the tongue in the groove.
5. Are all the screws on the fan extra tight?  If not tighten them.
6. Do you have a bent blade iron?  If so get it replaced.
7. When all else fails use a blade balancing kit to fix the wobble.

Question:

Why is my ceiling fan making noise?

Answer:

1. Are the screws on the housing tight?  If not tighten them.
2. Are the screws on the light kit tight?  If not tighten them.
3. Is there a wire nut or screw that might have fallen into the motor housing during installation?  If so take the fan down, turn it upside down and shake the loose piece out.
4. Is the junction box secure?  If not tighten it.
5. Are you using an infinite variable control or a light dimmer instead of a fan control?  Infinite variable controls create a low hum on lower speeds.

Question:

Why does my ceiling fan operate only on one speed?

Answer:

1. Are all the wires connected on the pull chain switch?  If not connect them.
2. Is the switch housing plugged securely into the fan?  If not you know what to do.
3. Are you using a radio frequency control?  If so, by pass the receiver module in the fan canopy and wire it direct to see if it is the control that is defective.
4. If the three above are correct change the switch housing.

Question:

Why won't my fan light come on?

Answer: 

1. Are the blue wires coming out of the top of the fan corrected properly to the power source?  If not you know what to do.
2. Are the blue and black wires connected in the switch housing?  If not you know what to do.
3. Are you using a radio frequency control?  If so, by pass the receiver module in the fan canopy and wire it direct to see if it is the control that is defective.

Question:

Why won't my ceiling fan come on at all?

Answer: 

1. Is there power coming into electrical junction box?  Test and see, if not call an electrician.
2. Are all the wires from the fan to the junction box connected?  If not you know what to do.
3. Check the reverse switch to see if it has been knocked to the middle.  If so, push it fully to either forward or reverse.
4. Is the switch housing plugged into the fan securely and are the wires securely in the plug harness?  If not you know what to do.
5. Is the circuit breaker in the off position?  If not you know what to do.
6. Are you using a radio frequency control?  If so, by pass the receiver module in the fan canopy and wire it direct to see if it is the control that is defective.

If none of the above solutions fix your ceiling fan problem it is safe to say that you have a defective product.  I would recommend calling the ceiling fan distributor you purchased it from and getting a new one.  And before you buy your next ceiling fan read all of our tips to help you buy a ceiling fan.

10 Things to Consider Before Buying Ceiling Fan

Ceiling fans are pretty simple interior appliances used to create a cooling effect in the summer and distribute heat evenly during the winter.  How complicated can it be?  There are thousands of ceiling fans to choose from and probably only 50 that will work in the space you want it in.  It is not that complicated if you can answer the following 10 questions.  These questions should narrow down your search when looking for a ceiling fan. 

What is Your Ceiling Height?

     

Is Your Ceiling Sloped or at an Angle?

To determine the degree of slope you will need to know the rise distance and the run distance measured in feet. 

Determine the Blade Span Based on the Size of the Room

• 16 - 40 sq. feet  = 24" to 32" Blade Span
• 40 - 75 sq. feet  = 34" to 40" Blade Span
• 75 - 100 sq. feet  = 40" to 42" Blade Span
• 100 - 140 sq. feet  = 42" to 48" Blade Span
• 140 - 200 sq. feet  = 48" to 52" Blade Span
• 200 - 260 sq. feet  = 52" to 54" Blade Span
• 260 - 300 sq. feet  = 54" to 58" Blade Span
• 300 - 380 sq. feet  = 58" to 62" Blade Span
• 380 - 450 sq. feet  = 62" to 72" Blade Span

If Your Ceiling Fan Box is Existing, How is it Wired?

1. 2-WIRE WALL = one hot wire (Black or Red) + one neutral wire (White) + one ground wire (Green); The hot wire and the neutral (unless there is a shared neutral) should travel to the designated wall switch box
2. 3-WIRE WALL = two hot wires (Black or Red) + one neutral wire (White) + one ground wire (Green); The hot wires and the neutral (unless there is a shared neutral) should travel to the designated wall switch box
3. 2-WIRE REMOTE = one hot wire (Black or Red) + one neutral wire (White) + one ground wire (Green); The hot wire is always hot and does not travel to a wall switch box

• Check to see if any existing wall switches control the power to the existing light or ceiling fan to be replaced. 
• After you have determined which wall switch(s) control the junction box or if there are no switches that control it, follow the next step.
• TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER THAT PROVIDES ELECTRIC CURRENT TO THE JUNCTION BOX IN QUESTION.
• Remove the existing ceiling fan or light fixture and view the exposed wires to determine which scenario you have. 
• Replace the removed ceiling fan or light fixture until your have the new fan to install. 

How do You Want to Control Your New Ceiling Fan?

1. Fan wall speed control - (1.5amp) - 3 or 4 quiet speeds
2. Fan wall speed control rotary - (1.5amp) - 3 or 4 quiet speeds
3. Fan wall speed control - (2.5amp) - 3 quiet speeds (made specifically for the Hunter Original fans)
4. Multi-Fan wall speed control - (5amp) - infinite variable speeds (fan may produce Low 50Hertz Hum) (up to 3 fans)
5. Multi-Fan wall speed control - (15amp) - infinite variable speeds (fan may produce Low 50Hertz Hum) (up to 10 fans)
6. 3-Wire fan/light wall control - 3 or 4 fan speeds and infinite light dimming
7. 3-Wire fan/light preset wall control - 3 or 4 fan speeds and infinite light dimming with a preset for your favorite light level setting
8. 2-Wire fan/light wall control - 3 fan speeds and infinite light dimming (Radio Frequency control that will include a receiver)
9. 2-Wire fan/light reversing wall control - 3 fan speeds, forward/reverse from control and infinite up-light/downlight dimming (Radio Frequency control that will include a receiver)
10. Fan/Light Remote Control - 3 fan speeds and infinite up-light/downlight dimming (Radio Frequency control that will include a receiver)
11. Fan/Light reversing Remote control - 3 fan speeds, forward/reverse from control and infinite up-light/downlight dimming (Radio Frequency control that will include a receiver)
12. Fan/Light Smart Wall Control - 6 fan speeds, forward/reverse from the control, infinite up-light/downlight  dimming, and special advanced security features.  (receiving device is usually built on to the motor) (Do NOT wire HOT)
13. Fan/Light Smart Remote Control - 6 fan speeds, forward/reverse from the control, infinite up-light/downlight dimming, decorative wall cradle and special advanced security features.  (receiving device is usually built on to the motor) (Do NOT wire HOT)

Do You Want a Fan with a Light?

• The finishes should be identical. The only way to match identical finishes are by using a light kit from the same manufacture as the fan. Some finishes are usually very close such as: Antique Brass; Brushed Nickel; Polished Brass; and Appliance White. These finishes have been standardized.
• The lower switch mounting must be the same on the fan as it is on the light kit. There are three most common lower switch housing mounts: The ever so popular center 3/8” threaded hole; Two set screws on the face of the lower switch housing; and Three set screws surrounding the body of the lower switch housing.
• If your fan is located in a damp location such as: bathroom, covered porch, patio, etc. The Light kit should be UL Damp Rated or UL Wet Rated. 

Do You Live by Salt Water or Brackish Water?

What Problems Happened on a Contemporary Lighting Install

Tech Lighting Monorail Track System Turned out Great!

The three Tech Lighting track systems turned out awesome after we worked through a standoff size problem.  On one of the track systems we were not able to mount the transformer flush to the ceiling because we were not able to chip out a space for the mounting T-Bar in the concrete slab.  Our solution was to cut longer stems for the standoff anchors.  This problem was solved fairly quickly and the low voltage track system ended up turning out awesome.

The Eurofase Lighting Fixtures had some small Issues

 The Foyer Lighting Fixture Exchange

The Eurofase Folie fixture turned out great with no issues except for the missing instruction manual.  Originally the Folie fixture was hung in the foyer but it seemed to be taking away from the fixture due to the recessed tray ceiling.  So, we put it in the office where the ceiling was naked allowing the full appreciation of this highly structural light fixture. 

The foyer replacement fixture was the Tech Lighting Aria ceiling.  This worked out perfect because the Aria has bendable arms that allowed us to make up for the off centered junction box with in the deep tray ceiling. 

Lighting that was Heating up the Kitchen

The Eurofase Metafisica lighting Fixture complimented the kitchen space perfectly.  They had a recessed tray ceiling in the shape of a off centered pentagon.  This made the fixture selection tough but it worked out in the end.  We also changed out the recessed trims that had incandescent R20 bulbs and a boring white baffle to a Halogen PAR bulb and brushed aluminum trim.  This made a bright difference.

The Terzani Dining Room Fixtures

The Terzani Adele suspension fixture for over the dining table is gorgeous but we could not hang it this $ 1,800.00 fixture was poorly packaged and one of the bulb sockets was crushed.  The light fixture has gone back for repair.  We did hang the Adele wall sconces and their shape, quality and design fit the space perfectly. 

There will be a final phase 4 of this lighting fixture installation and I will share the final images as soon as I get them.

Italian Light Fixture Install

This condo is on the Atlantic Ocean in Palm Coast, Florida.  The husband and wife team that own the condo had very good taste in lighting.  Most of their selection included high end Italian light fixtures from Eurofase, Murano glass from Tech Lighting, Prisms from ET2 Lighting and a Minka-Aire fan.

Eurofase - Ether 90S Italian Lighting Fixture

ET2 Prisms Fixture Looks Great!

The ET2 Prisms fixture turned out great.  This was by far not the easiest fixture to assemble.  We had to brace it up with two ladders side by side and adjust each prism manually.  Then we had to mount it directly into their faux painted ceiling.  This fixture did not come with the standard T-Bar mount for the junction box.  It was a pain in the rear end, but it looks great!

ET2 - Prisms Light Fixture

The Eurofase Lighting Fixtures were Hard to Figure Out

The Italian lighting fixture company Eurofase has beautiful designs and incredible glass quality.  We hung two of their fixtures during this phase of installation the Ether 90S (we call it Bubbles) and the Folie 70S.  Both of these fixtures came very well packaged although they did not include any instruction manuals or lamps.  Lamps are not expected in high end Italian fixtures but it is nice to see an instruction manual.  Also, see the Ether as the first image.

Eurofase - Folie 70S

Tech Lighting Monorail System Layout

We started the layout for two 16 foot low voltage monorail track systems.  We used 300watt 12volt surface mount transformers for the tracks.  When we hung the transformers the j-boxes were recessed too far into the ceiling so it created a small 1/2 inch space.  This space made it so the standoff anchors were a little too short making the transformer uneven with the rail.  We had to stop the installation on the monorail system.  I was bummed.

It is a little hard to tell from this pic.  I will have better ones after the second install phase this weekend. 

The last Tech Lighting fixture we hung was the Presto 20" in the master bath.  I love this fixture it looks like fireworks.  It comes fully assembled, with lamps and an instruction manual.  Very happy with this fixture and so were our clients.

Tech Lighting - Presto 20

I will post more images and product reviews after the second phase on this install.

How to hang a Large Dining Room Chandelier

 Large chandeliers can be a beautiful addition to any dining room provided that there are other sources of light present.  If the chandelier is the only source of light over a dining room table it will seem glary.  It is prefered to have evenly distributed recessed fixtures along with wall sconces so all of the light sources can be dimmed to provide an even distribution of light.

What size chandelier is right for your space?

Chandelier size is usually measured by diameter, height, and the number of lamps.  Ofcourse the more lamps a chandelier has the larger it usually is.  Chandeliers come with different number tiers meaning each tier is one row of arms that hold the lamp, usually a 3 to 6 light would be a single tier chandelier.  There are also two tier, three tier and four tier chandeliers.  An average chandelier for the typical dining room (10'W  x 10'L x 8'CLG) would be a 4 to 6 light, 26" to 30" diameter chandelier. 

The below factors may help when choosing the Light fixture that is right for you. 

• The chandelier should usually be centered over the dining table and not exceed 10" from either side of the edge of the table beneath. 
• The chandelier should be about 26" to 30" off the dining room table
• Taller dining room ceilings can use two or three tiered chandeliers
• For longer dining room tables two smaller chandeliers can be used
• Size the chandelier to the room not to the amount of light it puts out.
• Decorative lighting chain sleeves and medallions can be used for an added elegance
• Bowl pendants can often be used

Remember that there is no exact formula for the exact chandelier for your space it is really more of a balance of room size, architecture and furniture shapes.  So, if you have a dining room with a 20 foot ceiling, a 15 foot long table and you want a mini chandelier cause you like it, go for it.  Interior design to me is really a calculated art form of self expression in the home.  The most important part putting togather your home is to have fun.

Having trouble choosing a chandelier to fit your space

Many people decide that interior design is not there specialty or they just don't have enough time for it.  In these cases there are interior design organizations with enough information to help you find the resources you need to finish your project.  Below is a list of interior design resources.

• American Society of Interior Designers
• The Interior Design Society
• International Interior Design Association

The above are the most well known organizations of interior design.  They have proved helpful to us finding solutions to almost any design problem.

Designing & Installing a Tech Lighting Monorail System

Tools and hardware you will need for the installation

• Plumb Bob (laser prefered)
• Battery Drill with phillips bit 
• Hand level 
• Hacksaw (if cutting sections)
• Vise 
• Ladder (height to be determined by ceiling height) 
• Masking tape 
• Bending plywood block (if curved sections) 
• Voltage tester 
• Pencil 
• Graph paper 
• Measuring Tape

Begin With: Designing your MonoRail System Check List

1. In the design phase of your project, start with understanding what you want to light. Sometimes sunlight gets in the way so be sure to do this at night and in the day. This will give you an understanding of the functionality of your lighting system and a general direction of where the track will need to be. This is probably the most important step. 
2. At this point you want to use the measuring tape to measure out the room from side to side to side. That maybe too many sides. Begin sketching out your track system layout. This will help you find the shape of the track you are about to install by sketching until the desired shape is found. Remember that the Monorail System can be curved by hand to fit your architectural space. 
3. Remember that the MonoRail Run must be placed so it goes directly over the powered junction box. 
4. This leads you to the decision of what style and what colors compliment your space. 
5. You will need to decide which spot light heads and/or Tech Lighting pendants you will want to use if lighting specific items and where they will be located on the monorail system. 
6. With the proper measurements and a final drawing you will be able to determine how many pieces of rail you will need. Remember to add a pair of end caps to each end of the run.

Determine How much Lighting and what hardware will be needed

Add the number of spot light heads and Tech Lighting pendants together then multiply them by the bulb wattage in each to determine the wattage of the transformer. Surface mount transformers can be used on almost all ceiling surfaces and simply mount directly to the junction box beneath the run. The surface mounts look like neat little spaceships attached to the ceiling. A remote transformer with a power feed canopy will provide a cleaner look but, the remote transformer must be located in a semi-near location accounting for voltage drop to the power feed canopy.

Based on the ceiling height and the location of the items wanted to light determine how far from the ceiling you want the system to drop. Standard power feed canopies drop the MonoRail System two inches from the ceiling. The surface mount systems are determined by what size transformer is needed from two to five inches.

If you desire the rail to be lower than what is standard than you will need to add a power extender to the power feed canopy or the surface mount transformer. The maximum drop for the MonoRail Track System is eight feet.

The size of the rigid standoff rail anchors can be determined by matching the drop of the power feed to the Monorail System. If an extender is used add the distance of the power extender and the surface transformer or power feed canopy distance to determine the size of the standoff. Adjustable cable standoffs can be used as well but, are not recommended for curved tracks. You’ll need a standoff for every three feet of run and the power feed from the transformer counts as one standoff. Note that power extenders and standoff’s are field cutable so you can customize your MonoRail height.

Installation of your Tech Lighting MonoRail Track System

1. Receive and check in all of the specified parts that you will need for your shiny new track system. 
2. Begin by taping off where the furniture that will be beneath the MonoRail System is before moving it out of the way. This will give you a feel as to where the furniture will be while you lay the system out on the floor. 
3. Assemble the MonoRail on the floor by mirroring its exact location as it would be on the ceiling. Make all necessary cuts and curves that relate to the sketch made. 
4. Connect and mount the surface transformer or the power feed canopy on the existing junction box. 
5. Measure out the placement of all the standoffs on the ground marking the track at each location. 
6. Use the Laser Plumb Bob to determine the location of the ceiling anchors that will secure the standoffs to the ceiling. I like to stand on a ladder and mark the ceiling with a sharpie where every the laser falls. Be sure not to look into the laser as it damages our eyes, just another problem we don’t need. 
7. Each standoff comes with a drywall anchor that will be used at each mark done by the sharpie markie. If you have a concrete slab as in many condos a small 3/8” anchor can be used and set with a 3/8” masonry drill bit. 
8. Mount all of the standoffs in the ceiling. Be sure not to over tighten or the anchor might loose its anchor. Remove all of the lower mounting harnesses on each standoff. 
9. With a little help raise the assembled MonoRail track system fitting it into each standoff and the power feed. Tighten each harness by loosening the alan key that allows the base to rotate screwing in the lower mounting harness. 
10. Level out the system by using the hand level and adjusting each standoff. By this time you may want to do it by eye but the level always proves to be right. 
11. Insert the end caps for that cleaned up end look. 
12. Assemble and place the spot light heads in there desired place on the Monorail run. 
13. The pendants take a little more effort. The splice on the pendant is the hardest part of this step so take your time and follow the instructions closely when modifying pendant cord length. 
14. Run the system for 20 minutes. 
15. Turn off the system and check for any connections that are hot to the touch. Warm is acceptable. Note that halogen lamps generate heat. Those connections that are hot must be retightened. 
16. Your Tech Lighting MonoRail System is ready to rock and roll. 
17. If you need any further assistance during your installation call your Tech Lighting Monorail Experts.